Unveiling the Artistry: Embracing New Shapes and Forms in Fashion Silhouettes

     The world of fashion is an ever-evolving landscape, and one of the most intriguing aspects of this realm is the diverse range of shapes found in clothing. From flowing silhouettes to structured forms, the shapes of clothes play a crucial role in defining a person's style and conveying their personality. Each shape carries its own unique charm, creating a visual language that speaks volumes about fashion trends and individual preferences. Clothing primarily served functional purposes, adapting to the environment and meeting basic needs for protection and warmth. The early garments were simple and draped, taking cues from the natural shapes of the body. As societies advanced, clothing became a symbol of status, hierarchy, and identity. This led to the development of more complex and structured garments, such as the togas of ancient Rome or the elaborate robes of Chinese dynasties.

The silhouettes of a garment always tells a story. A new generation of designers are bringing back the infamous "lump and bump" collection from Rei Kawakubo. Her collection sometimes speaks social progress. Sometimes its a means of turning the inside, outwards - literally. The new designers intend to works on same concept and more. The designers Marco Ribeiro, Sun Woo Chang, Chet Lo and Terrence Zhou are creating garments with extreme silhouettes.

Diving Into Shapes and Forms

Marco Ribeiro - Concept behind circle pieces

The investigation of shapes is the foundation of my work. They seem to me to be the fundamental components of everything, including the human body, design, and clothing. I've always been drawn to circles visually - said Ribeiro. For me, it conveys a message of equality and unity. The circle forces you to pause and consider the present moment because it has no evident beginning or ending. I believe that pause enhances living in our contemporary world.

          
       Marco, Collection III, AW21                                                          Marco, Collection III, AW21

The oversized graphic silhouettes of the big circle looks are deliberately dramatic and a bit absurd. I want to it be fun, vibrant, and to offer a fresh, uplifting perspective. I want my garments to upend the surroundings they are in and reveal the boundaries and constructs we are bound by. Using my creations as a tool for happiness, harmony, and optimism, it's both a little bit serious and a little bit playful. I want to dare people to be more liberated since the world is serious. The circles function as a kind of protest in this way. 

Sun Woo Chang - Concept Behind Pop-up tent pieces

The inspiration came from my constantly shifting life. I've resided in the UK, Canada, and Korea. I've always believed that I don't belong anywhere. When I was in London once, I noticed a group of folks strolling around while toting pop-up tents - said Sun Woo. I sensed a connection to them; I thought, " that’s the life I’ve dreamed of ". These foldable clothes, which have pop-up tent-like qualities, were inspired by my personal experience of not belonging. Through the use of technical fabrics and wire components, pop-up tents' simplicity, mobility, and protectiveness are transformed into my clothing.

                
      Sun Woo Pop-Up Tent Collection

It's intriguing to me how the silhouette of the clothing adapts to various body kinds and forms. Because jersey is both flexible and comfy to wear, I mostly utilize it. I start by theoretically developing a shape and structure before including wearability. For me, a garment is wearable if it actually has armholes and a neckline opening. I believe my pieces exist as autonomous works, without being related to the body. Apart from the perspective of wearability, it’s important for me to apply structural beauty to a garment when creating it. I don’t think fashion necessarily has to remain as a wearable art form.

Chet Lo - Concept Behind Durian-textured pieces

These pieces were a happy accident - Chet Lo said, at Central Saint Martins, I was creating my final knitwear collection, but I only included embroidery and no knit fabrics. My professor informed me that I needed to have knit in the collection to pass. So, reluctantly, I began exploring for methods I had heard about in the past but had never tried, and I used my favorite (and most challenging) yarn to complete the textile. I completely stumbled upon it and was amazed at the possibilities!

From Chet Lo Durian-texture Collection

The human body is absolutely crucial to my line of work. I used to have a very different viewpoint when I was still in college. I would only create silhouettes that I thought were intriguing, completely neglecting the body. But my mentor taught me that clothing looks stunning when it complements the body's inherent proportions. The smallest alteration can completely alter the silhouette and mood of an outfit. Definitely, my pieces exist as autonomous works, without being related to the body. They have an element of sculpture that I find extremely interesting and I’ve been thinking of expanding to that world...

Terrence Zhuo - Concept Behind Durian-textured pieces

My family didn't encourage me to pursue art studies when I was younger - Zhuo recalls, I ended up studying math because I'm strong at arithmetic, but I know what I love, and that's art. So, after my sophomore year, I made the decision to transfer to Parsons to study art and fashion. I'm grateful because I think the marriage of math and art is so fascinating and wonderful. It influences not only who I am but also a lot of design choices. 

From Terrence Zhuo "Living is a Performance" Collection

This collection, the first of its kind, is titled "Living is a performance" and was inspired by myself. There's this theatrical aspect where I hide and muddle my frailty while projecting the best aspects of myself. This resulted in a silhouette with broad shoulders and a narrow waist, or one with numerous layers, expressing unabashed beauty behind an impenetrable wall of uncertainty or farce. I never wanted to minimize the value of the rules for producing clothing, but I do want to develop my own design language to best suit each job. The standards for making clothes seem too stiff or "cookie-cutter" to me. Creativity and adaptability ought to go hand in hand. I don't like following the rules since it limits and undermines my sense of identity. If we want to develop as designers and artists, we need our own space. By using our own words and instincts, our vision should originate from a sincere and genuine place. 


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FAQs:

Q: How do clothing shapes play a role in conveying a person's style and personality?
A: Clothing shapes are instrumental in expressing individual style and personality. Each shape carries its own charm, speaking volumes about fashion trends and personal preferences. The choice of silhouettes reflects a unique visual language that communicates one's fashion sense and personality.

Q What are some key concepts behind the extreme silhouettes created by designers like Marco Ribeiro, Sun Woo Chang, Chet Lo, and Terrence Zhou?
A: Designers like Marco Ribeiro explore circle-based pieces symbolizing equality and unity, while Sun Woo Chang's pop-up tent-inspired clothing reflects his transient life experiences. Chet Lo stumbled upon durian-textured pieces accidentally, leading to an exploration of texture, and Terrence Zhuo draws inspiration from personal experiences to create silhouettes portraying the duality of projecting strength while concealing vulnerabilities.

Q: How do these designers approach the relationship between clothing shapes and the human body in their creations?
A: While some designers prioritize wearability and adaptability of clothing shapes to different body types, others, like Chet Lo, initially approached clothing as autonomous works not inherently tied to the body. However, an understanding of how clothing complements the body's proportions became essential to their work's aesthetic and impact.

Q: What influences the unconventional textures and shapes seen in the designs of Marco Ribeiro, Sun Woo Chang, Chet Lo, and Terrence Zhuo?
A: Each designer's inspirations vary from personal experiences of displacement and belonging to accidental discoveries during their creative processes. They draw from diverse sources, including cultural encounters, personal narratives, accidental experimentation, and the fusion of mathematics and art.

Q: How do these designers challenge conventional norms and rules in fashion design with their unique approaches to clothing shapes and forms?
A: These designers challenge traditional fashion norms by exploring unconventional textures, shapes, and the relationship between clothing and the human body. Their approaches prioritize creativity, autonomy, and individual expression over rigid design rules, aiming to create unique design languages and authentic representations of their identities.

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